The 90+ heat did not relent until the Brenner Pass, at 1370 meters (4,500 feet), and then it slipped back down to 80. We finally felt we could debark from the car and got a hot dog at the roadside restaurant in Austria. Interestingly, the entire restaurant (Rosenberg’s) was run by mostly women, all wearing veils (niqab); all the other assorted male employees were north African men. I was pleased we could still bring Berlino into the restaurant, and the staff was very helpful, as I juggled our two trays to the table (allow me, madam). It was an indication of what was to come: many, many restaurants, stores, and establishments in Germany were staffed by non-Germans, many Turkish people, Albanians, and Kosovars. On our hotel street we were able to eat food from all nations – Persian, Thai, Chinese, Turkish. Nary a schnitzel in sight. Actually almost no other dogs, either. I couldn’t tell if the Germans didn’t like dogs, or our area was just too touristy. On the way home, we stopped immediately at Vipento Sterzing on the Italian side of the pass and ate dumplings in the colors of the Italian flag: beet, spinach and potato. Dogs were plentiful again. |
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