Sunday, January 11, 2026

Artnotes: At Farfa

 

Welcome to Santa Maria di Farfa

This week we headed to Farfa, an Abbey just about 20 minutes from where we live in Stimigliano.   Its existed since the 500s (founded by Saint Lorenzo of Syria), with buildings from about 700.  There are nuns and priests still living and working  here.  It has a terrific church, a library with materials from early medieval times, herb gardens, and an entire small town of businesses, restaurants and workplaces.  It is such a treasure to have so close to home, and we visit it several times a year.

Renovation and what it looks like without scaffolding (earlier visit)
It was one of those days:  below freezing; as we started to film, snowflakes started falling.  There was scaffolding about the exterior of the church.   We dealt with it.   But then, inside the church was hammering, voices, more scaffolding.  In a way this was a bonus, because we see the people in this icy cold interior, restoring the fine frescoes all around the church.   Otherwise most items weren’t viewable, if not on account of scaffolding, because there were no lights (except candles).
Maybe the biggest obstacle on this folly of a trip was that when I looked at the videos I realized I am not as photogenic as I once was.  Maybe these “art history” moments are best left to writing, or a voice in the background.   I know I am not supposed to think that way, but honestly, I would rather see a more youthful, or at least a more interesting-looking me jabbering about who made what and how a thousand years ago.
In any case, the most interesting (and accessible) item I found was the Madonna Icon, from around 1290.  A large, framed image encrusted with gold, has four “holes’ where the image of Mary, Jesus and 2 angels peek out.  It makes me think of one of those carnival photo ops, where you stick your head through the hole and you can be a queen or a dog, and your partner is a sea captain.
We were so cold after twenty minutes, we had to run to the coffee shop to get one of those marvelously thick hot cocoas.  The chocolate is as thick as cake batter.   As my friend L says, “at least we had a good meal.”  (in our case hot chocolate) Maybe I’m just better off painting. Red and White seemed the colors of the day.
 
Above  Works on paper  Laurie Fox Pessemier  12 x 9"  90 apiece.
Red Vase from Margherita   Laurie Fox Pessemier  Acrylic/paper  25 x 17"  67 x 43   290.00
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