Sunday, May 25, 2014

Artnotes: False Start

 Cafe Bullier  Blair Pessemier   Acrylic on linen  12 x 12"  30 x 30 cm
 Cafe near Montparnasse  Laurie Fox Pessemier   Acrylic/linen  9 x 13"  22 x 33 cm
 Pont Neuf  Blair Pessemier  Acrylic/linen  14 x 20"  35 x 50 cm
 Ile de la Cite with Pont Neuf  Laurie Fox Pessmeier   Acrylic/wood7.25 x 10.25"  18 x 26 cm
Arch of Pont Neuf  Laurie Fox Pessemier   Acrylic/linen  11 x 14"  27 x 35 cm

ARTNOTES:  FALSE START

On the banks of the Seine, I set to drawing Henry IV on his horse.  Not only are horses difficult for me, but this horse seems to have a funny hoof.  No matter, it looks like I am drawing two men in a horse suit, with a too long gumby leg up front.  Henry seems to have a hunchback.  I move on to another subject.  

It’s been a week of false starts – we needed a car to go to Auvers-sur-Oise with a painter on Wednesday, so I rented a compact for a week (1 day 42 euros; 1 week 91).   

It rained all morning in Auvers-sur-Oise.  Harika, who LOVES the country, chose the car after the “Vincent walked here” dousing along the path between fields and church.   Too wet to paint, Blair and our colleague visited Vincent’s room in the Hotel Ravoux.  I dried my wet pants and socks in the car.  Still too rainy to paint, we took our fellow artist to lunch.  Our hostess, bedecked in rat fur capelet tied with black grosgrain ribbon, welcomed us.  A sort of Edith Piaf gone to seed, she has been operating the restaurant for fifty-five years.  She has an assistant, another vintage woman, in the kitchen.  The place is lined in peeling imitation-van-gogh murals executed by one of her contemporaries in an early year.  They are now covered with newer paintings, on canvas, but still with a Vincent theme.  I ask about the bringing in Harika:  “I’ll beat her if she doesn’t behave,” she tells me, poker faced, and winks.   We have a big assorted appetizer plate, one quail, two rabbit legs, and a giant mound of au gratin potatoes, an aperitif, wine, apple tart and coffee:    48 for the three of us, and we’re on our way.  
 Eventually, the rain lets up and we paint Van Gogh’s city hall.

Next day, we intended to go to Nimes, by car.  I searched the internet for just the right place to stay, to no avail.  We went anyway.   Two hours out of town, we changed our mind.  We stopped to visit the town of Auxerre, to walk Harika and stretch our own legs, before turning back.

Auxerre was a place I never thought of visiting.  It has a strong waterfront presence on the river Yonne.  A gallo-roman city, again it thrived again in medieval times.  We visited the church with a beautiful Joan of Arc window, and the ancient abbey.  Joan of Arc freed Auxerre from English rule in 1429.  Auxerre is in the region of Burgundy, and is famous for chablis (a much nicer wine than what we think of as chablis in the USA). 

On Friday, we visited an exhibit at the Beaux-Arts museum in Rouen.  The theme was gothic cathedrals:  gothic seems to have a revival every so many years, so we saw works ranging from original bits of the churches, to “cathedral” themed decoration from the 1800s, to the pictures Monet painted of the cathedral in Rouen at different times of the day.  Marquet painted images of Notre Dame in Paris in the 1910s; Lyonel Feninger in the 20s.    Saturday was the fete of Joan of Arc, who was burned in Rouen in 1431.   Posters and announcements were everywhere.  

We drove on, to the country, in hopes of seeing flax (linen) in bloom.  It has a delicate blue flower.  We were two weeks too early.  

Painting by the Seine on Saturday was a mix of cool and damp, with a little sun.  The rain held off until noon, allowing us time to paint a picture of the Pont Neuf, the oldest bridge in Paris.

 City Hall Auvers  Blair Pessemier   Acrylic/linen  14 x 14"  35 x 35 cm

 Normandy Fields   Laurie Fox Pessemier   Acrylic/wood  7.5 x 13.5"  20 x 34 cm
Woods at Fontainbleau   Laurie Fox Pessemier   Acrylic/wood 19 x 42"  48 x 106 cm

 Forest at Fontainbleau  Blair Pessemier   Acrylic/linen  14 x 20"  35x 50 cm

Sunday, May 18, 2014

Artnotes: (thinking of) Far Away Places



 Madame Tourne-Bouchon   Blair Pessemier  acrylic on linen  16 x 11"  41 x 27 cm

Today we met a man from Afghanistan at our morning café (really it’s Harika’s café, Pierre and Andre’s place, where they love her and give her sausages).  The Afghani is working in the neighbhorhood as a menusier, or specialty woodworker.  Blair saw the opportunity to get to know him better and offer a little work.  We have two drawers which never were properly fitted (actually, the backs were broken off to accommodate a pipe) and finished in our kitchen cabinet:  lickety-split he was over.   

He showed us pictures of Afghanistan.  Would I paint him a picture of the mountain which just had the landslide?  Of course. “ I will send you many pictures of Afghanistan, so you know – the real country, not the country you see on the news.”  He means the infernal war, the Taliban, the awfulness of it all.
We visit a little – we ask him about boats.  Boats?  Afghanistan doesn’t even have a seacoast.  I see a picture of his brother – “he was little when I left, now he is big and he shaves.  It makes me so sad when I look at this picture.  I have never known him.”  But the key in the picture is the river.  “See, we have a river, and there are boats.  This river comes from the mountain and brings water to Kabul.”  I hope Coca-cola never figures that out.  “People protect the river,” he continues “we all need it.”  The reason the mountain slid and killed 2000 people is because the people moved so close to the mountain to have water.

Allee in the Luxemoburg Gardens   Blair Pessemier   Acrylic on panel  12 x 12"  30 x 30 cm
 
I am so sorry I can’t go see Afghanistan myself.  Actually, Damascus in Syria was the place I most wanted to live after Tunisia.  Damascus was the oldest continuously occupied city on earth. Neither place is open to visitors now.  

Blair and I have lived in a charmed age where travel was cheap and easy and not everyone hated Americans.  Blair went to school in Rome, visited Istanbul on his own.  Those days are gone and to insure our continued stay-put-ness, we have Harika.  “You’re going where? NO WAY” her eyes bespeak her thoughts.  We have probably lasted longer because of her silent protests.  We have to be satisfied with meeting people from all over in cafes -- living in the big city has advantages.
 
We are thinking of going to Nimes on Sunday.  Blair found a grand house we could rent and put up people for art lessons.  Eventually we’ll turn it into a  retirement home for our more interesting friends.  We’ll hire good-looking help.  The politically incorrect police could be all over me.  A real French chef.

Oddly enough, our student on Thursday has had a similar idea:  to open a home for orphaned old folks.  Each one will have an orphan dog.  Harika isn’t as keen on that, but I am happy to hear other people are thinking the same way as me.  I read about people who are 100 are happier than many younger people.  And they ate whatever seemed good to them.  Hooray.

 Jean Lux   Blair Pessemier  Arylic on panel  12 x 12"  30 x 30 cm
 Three planters   Blair Pessemier  Acyrlic on linen  13 x 16"  33 x 41 cm
 Pont des Arts 15 May   Laurie Fox Pessemier   Acrylic/linen  11 x 16"  27 x 41 cm
 Shades of Violet   Laurie Fox Pessemier  Acrylic/linen  12 x 19.5"  30 x 58 cm
 Ile de la Cite 15 May   Blair Pessemier   Acrylic/linen  15 x 18"  38 x 46 cm
 Irises 15 May  Blair Pessemier  Acrylic/panel  14 x 11"  27 x 35 cm


Saturday, May 10, 2014

Artnotes: Paris Charm

 Shadows in May   Blair Pessemier   Acrylic/linen  13 x 16"  33 x 41 cm 
 Child and Nurse  Laurie Fox Pessemier   Acrylic/linen  10.5 x 14 inches  27 x 35 cm
 Eiffel Tower in Sun   Blair Pessemier   Acrylic/linen    10.5 x  16 inches 27 x 41 cm
 Eiffel Tower in Clouds   Laurie Fox Pessemier   Acrylic/linen  113 x 16  33 x 41 cm
Sunny Pot of Flowers   Laurie Fox Pessemier   Acrylic/linen  14 x 20  35 x 50 cm

Artnotes:  Paris Charm

“I had to go to the police station to report my car was hit and run,” a friend reports,” it took me an hour and a half.”
“How could that be?” I asked, knowing our police station is never busy.
“They made the report with a typewriter.  And carbon paper.”
I was shocked.  I didn’t think you could even buy typewriter ribbon anymore.  If you thought France was approaching the 21st century, think again.

We got our carte de sejour this week – good for one year, and it was the same thing.  We started the process one year ago this month, and finally our card (good now for another six months) was renewed.  Blair and I each have a file two inches thick, which is less than some other people:  one Polish couple, 60-ish, had one as thick as the Oxford English dictionary (condensed form).   Every time we go there, we EACH have to have six months’ copies of our electric bill, our banking information… and they keep it (who knows where?) for eternity.  The city doesn’t mail out our carte de sejour any more, so we brave multiple lines and metal detectors at the big city police station once again.  I look for inspector Maigret in the hallways.

The family of one of my younger students is here for a month.  I visit with them while their daughter gets ready to paint.   The parents are charmed by France and its antiquated customs.  They are from Los Angeles.  “I just don’t understand how this many bakeries could stay in business,” she tells me.  “All so small and individual.  And chocolate shops.  All delicious. ”

J and I go to the garden to paint with a French woman, with Blair, already started.   I watch children and their nannies, like Degas painted.   J isn’t as happy today – we are painting the trees – next time she wants to paint portraits of one another.

It was a week of happy surprises.  We had a French painter with us on Tuesday, Blair’s birthday, and she turned out to be just great.  It was our first French workshop participant– we usually have anglo-saxons, on vacation from the US, Australia, or England.  Friends made Blair a birthday cake!  On Wednesday we painted with a delightful young woman from Seattle – studying political science here.  It brings to mind Hollande and his foibles, DSK, and Sarkozy, but I must remember there was Charlemagne, the Louis’, Napoleon.  And, of course, there was deGaulle.

Thursday was Victory in Europe day, a holiday in France.  It’s hard to imagine that was 69 years ago.  They’re using the same typewriter at the police station.

Sunday, May 04, 2014

Artnotes: Week Unique

Ponies  Blair Pessemier   10.75 x 14"   27 x 35cm

 Pont du Carousel and Quais   Laurie Fox Pessemier  Acrylic/line  14 x 19.5 "  35 x 50 cm
 Boules Laurie Fox Pessemier  Acyrlic/linen  14 x 10.75 inches  35x 27 cm
 Tulip  Blair Pessemier  Acrylic/panel  12 x 12   30 x 30 cm
 Dogwood  Laurie Pessemier   Acrylic/panel  14 x 10.75"  35 x 27 cm
 Under the bridge   Blair Pessemier   Acrylic/linen  15 x 18"  38 x 46 cm
 Notre Dame   Blair Pessemier   Acrylic/linen  19.5 x 12 inches  50 x 30 cm
 From the Garden at Notre Dame   Laurie Fox Pessemier   Acrylic/linen  10.75 x 14  27 x 35 cm

 Garden le Notre   Laurie Fox Pessemier   Acrylic/linen  10.75 x 16 inches   27 x 41 cm
 Chantilly   Blair Pessemier   Acrylic/linen  13 x 16"  33 x 41 cm
 Pony   Laurie Fox Pessemier   Acrylic/wood  6 x 13"   15.5 x 33 cm
 Ponies on a wood panel   Blair Pessemier  Acrylic/wood  4.5 x 13"   12 x 33 cm
 Painting the Boules players   Laurie Fox Pessemier   Acrylic/linen   14 x 10.75"  35 x 27cm
 Boules Game  Blair Pessemier   Acrylic/linen  15 x 18    38 x 46 cm
 Flowers at Giverny   Blair Pessemier   Acrylic/linen  14 x 19.5 inches  35 x 50 cm
Bridge Giveny other angle    Laurie Fox Pessemier   Acrylic/linen  14 x 19.5 inches  35 x 50 cm

Artnotes:  Week Unique

We spent all this week painting:  in our usual workshop haunts, but with the fresh eyes of a new season.   The great thing about painting is, even in the same place, light and angles and scenes all look new.

We painted ponies and boules players in the Luxembourg Gardens.  We stood beneath the Pont des Arts with the added insurance of umbrellas, hung upside down on the bridge rafters, as we painted the river.  We sat BEHIND Notre Dame, where tourists rarely go, and painted the ever so complex cathedral – what were we thinking?  A man from Norway, a teacher, spoke to me about his “kids” who wanted to know why paintings cost so much.  I explained a painting was a unique item, which was the work of a single person, in touch with the subject, which could never be replicated.  It is a single moment in the universe.  His wife dragged him away.

Giverny was remarkably sunny – and there we ran into a friend who didn’t have a reservation for after-hours, but we had an extra slot.  So, photographer Meredith Mullins took this great picture of Blair’s painting.


Auvers-sur-Oise was a bit rainy, so we just walked around/drove around, imagining Vincent Van Gogh.   At Dr Gachet’s house, we looked at letters in Vincent’s very own hand.
When Friday rolled around, we brought one guest to the airport, and with the other, drove twenty further minutes to the chateau of Chantilly.  

Chantilly belonged to the Conde family for much of its history (the history goes up and down, with the chateau being destroyed/rebuilt/destroyed/rebuilt).   At one time, it had an art collection which was only second to the Louvre.  Now, it has some very choice pieces including work by Raphael and Ingres – but I find the collection of portrait miniatures and the library (which now houses (sadly just a facsimile of) the Duc de Berry’s “tres riches heures”) to be most interesting.  Chantilly’s gardens were designed by le Notre, and there is an actual water-filled moat.  Chantilly, however, is most noted for its stables.  

The seventh prince of Conde built royal stables, which, at one time housed 280 horses and 150 dogs.  This time, we saw about a dozen horses and a Jack Russell terrier – but the stables, and the ring (with a 28 meter high dome, hosting daily shows of dressage at 11 AM) remain.  There is also a racecourse.  The prince was convinced he (and his friends) would be reincarnated as horses, so he wanted to be sure they had decent digs:  they are.

After we dropped our painter off at the airport, Blair and I returned to paint le Notre’s gardens, under a rainy/sunny sky.